By Debbie Roland and
Emmy Ulmschneider
Master Gardeners
Nothing says spring more than a garden full of color. Bulbs are the traditional harbingers of spring. There are many types of bulbs and the reason we grow them is that they bloom at a certain time and then are dormant or hidden for the rest of the year.
For more on bulbs see: https://www.westtexasgardening.org/post/bulbs-corms-and-rhizomes-the-difference and https://www.westtexasgardening.org/post/bulbs.
Now is the time to plant traditional spring bulbs like daffodils, crocuses, narcissus, and hyacinths. Spring bulbs need time to be exposed to soil that is cooling before the actual freezing weather sets in. It is a good idea to check your soil temperature about 6” below the surface. When that reaches 60 F you should be okay to plant. So, how do you start?
First, research the bulbs you love and want to see if they would grow well in West Texas. If they originated in the Mediterranean area, for instance, you would plant them in a part of your yard that best mimics that area: sunny and dry.
Second, inspect the bulbs before you buy them. A catalog might be your best bet. But if you buy locally, avoid bulbs that are spongy, moldy or withered up. The general rule is that the bigger the bulb the more flowers it will produce. With bulbs it can take several years before they reach their full blooming capacity.
Third, pick a location with appropriate sun exposure and soil moisture. Bulbs, generally, do not like to have their feet wet because it can cause them to rot. Remember that bulbs planted in the fall flower before trees get their first blooms so you can even plant around trees since they won’t be providing shade that early in the spring.
Fourth, plant your bulbs. You will need your bulbs, a spade, and possibly bone meal. A natural appearance in your yard is always best. To make this happen loosen the area you want to cover and arrange the bulbs all at once, then cover. Another method is to just toss them in the air and plant them where they land, avoiding planting in rows. Remember to always plant in odd numbers.
There is no need to fertilize bulbs when planting since the embryo for next year’s plant is already inside. But if your soil is not up to par you can add a handful of bone meal or balanced fertilizer. Bulbs are planted to a depth of twice the height of the bulb. For instance, if the bulb is 3” long it should be planted about 6” deep. The pointed end of the bulb is the stem and should be pointed up when planted. If you have some that do not have an obvious pointed end, then just lay it on its side and you are good to go.
If you have squirrels or rodents in your area you may want to lay a small piece of chicken wire over them before you cover with soil. The bulb will grow through the wire but, hopefully, will stop the digging process. Sprinkling red pepper flakes in the hole may help as well.
Once planted, water well then just sit back and let nature takes its course. If we have a particularly dry winter, you may want to water every few weeks, but bulbs don’t require much attention through this time.
Fifth, cut the bulbs back to ground level when they have finished blooming, and the leaves are completely yellow and dry. If you cut them down too soon, the plant will not have had time to photosynthesize food for the next season’s bulb, resulting in weak plants next season.
Most bulbs multiply from the original bulb and in a few years, can become overcrowded. When that happens, dig them up, separate, and replant for the best show. Discard the bulbs that are small or damaged but pass along any extras you have to give the gift of spring color. You’ll be glad you did!
If you have questions, call the AgriLife office in Odessa at 498-4071 or in Midland at 686-4700. Additional information, and our blog for access to past articles, is available at westtexasgardening.org. Click on “Resources.”
